From Tragedy to Triumph in the Land of a Thousand Hills

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I recall sitting in a restaurant within walking distance from Holburn Tube Station, engaging in a conversation with my newly made Cameroonian friend. We were taking a break from sessions during the African Summit held at the LSE.

Back then, my knowledge of African affairs was limited and primarily focused on a couple of south-western countries. I attended this event in an effort to broaden my understanding on a wider level.

This conversation took place around the time when Cameroonian news was dominated by developments surrounding the murder of an investigative journalist. Instead of delving into the complexities of Cameroon, my friend felt it was crucial to understand the colonial empires that paved the way for one of the most tragic events in recent African history. He proceeded to narrate the story of the Tutsi and Hutu people.

Here is a very brief overview for those less familiar with Rwandan history

Rwanda has a long history, with evidence of human settlement dating back thousands of years. The Twa people were likely the first inhabitants, followed by the Hutu and Tutsi, who arrived later. These ethnic groups shared a common language and culture but had distinct social structures.

Before the arrival of European colonisers, Rwanda was home to a dynamic set of pre-colonial kingdoms, the most notable being the Kingdom of Rwanda. This era, characterised by a centralised monarchy, social stratification, and a strong sense of cultural identity, laid the foundation for Rwanda’s socio-political landscape. The Tutsi, Hutu, and Twa ethnic groups coexisted within a hierarchical structure, with the Tutsi elite holding positions of power.

The Kingdom of Rwanda, with its well-organised social system and efficient administration, thrived for centuries. The monarchy played a crucial role in maintaining order, and the people engaged in activities such as agriculture, cattle herding, and trade. 

The late 19th century witnessed the scramble for Africa, and Rwanda became a casualty of the imperial powers’ territorial ambitions. The Berlin Conference of 1884-1885 resulted in the arbitrary division of Africa among European powers, with little regard for ethnic, cultural, or historical boundaries. Germany took control of Rwanda, introducing colonial rule that would significantly impact the region.

Colonialism ushered in a period of social engineering, with the colonisers favouring the Tutsi elite, exacerbating existing ethnic tensions. The Belgian administration, which took control after World War I, deepened these divisions through the implementation of identity cards that rigidly classified individuals as Tutsi, Hutu, or Twa. This divisive strategy sowed the seeds for the tragic events of 1994 — the Rwandan Genocide.

Rwanda gained independence from Belgium in 1962. However, the legacy of colonialism persisted, leaving behind a deeply divided society. In the aftermath of independence, Rwanda struggled with political instability and social unrest. The Hutu majority, historically marginalized during the colonial era, sought to assert their power. The ensuing power struggles and political manoeuvring created an atmosphere of volatility.

By the late 1980s, the country faced economic challenges, political corruption, and a growing number of refugees, including Tutsis, who had fled earlier ethnic violence. These factors contributed to the complex socio-political landscape that ultimately erupted into one of the darkest chapters in Rwandan history.

In 1994, long-standing ethnic tensions between the Hutu majority and Tutsi minority erupted into violence on an unprecedented scale. The trigger for the genocide was the assassination of President Juvénal Habyarimana, a Hutu, in a plane crash on April 6, 1994. This event catalysed an orchestrated campaign of mass killings, primarily targeting the Tutsi population.

In a horrifyingly short span of 100 days, from April to July 1994, extremist Hutu militias, along with elements of the Rwandan military, systematically executed an estimated 800,000 to 1 million people, predominantly Tutsis. The brutality of the genocide was marked by the use of machetes, firearms, and other means to perpetrate widespread massacres.

The international community faced criticism for failing to intervene promptly to prevent the unfolding catastrophe. Despite mounting evidence of the scale of violence, the response was marred by hesitancy, political considerations, and a lack of coordinated action.

Fast forward, and I found myself standing at the Kigali Genocide Memorial grounds, a testament to the indomitable spirit and resilience of the Rwandan people. The memorial serves as a sober reminder of the atrocities committed during the genocide and a profound acknowledgement of the pain that paves the way for healing and transformation.

Going Forward - The Good and The Bad

My time in Rwanda left a profound impression on me, witnessing the country’s remarkable emergence as one of Africa’s fastest-growing economies and a symbol of resilience in the heart of the continent.

Born in Yugoslavia, a country that went through hell of its own before it ceased to exist, I couldn’t help but reflect on our struggles, especially issues with nationalism, in comparison to Rwanda’s recovery. Inspired by its progress, here are some of my observations and thoughts.

Safety and Cleanliness

When considering travel to the Global South, safety seems to be one of the biggest concerns. In my visit to Rwanda, safety and cleanliness were standout features that significantly impacted my experience. The government’s implementation of robust security measures, evident in police officers patrolling and thorough security scans at major facilities, contributed to an overall sense of safety. While the sight of armed officers was not the most pleasant, I understand that it contributes to security and enables a quick response in case of incidents. 

The genuine kindness of the people also contributed to my overall sense of well-being, making me feel safe exploring the streets during both day and night. As a white woman and an obvious foreigner, I became a magnet for offers and requests in the streets and markets. This could be attributed to cultural curiosity rather than solely misguided associations between skin colour and wealth, a legacy of colonisation. Remarkably, amidst the chaos in bustling markets like Kimironko, no one attempted to touch my bag or pockets—a contrast to experiences in markets elsewhere.

Another noteworthy aspect was the absence of litter and the ban on plastic bags. Despite my home country, Montenegro, being known for its 1991 ‘Ecological State’ Declaration, I was accustomed to seeing plastic bags littering landscapes. In Rwanda, my positive shock stemmed from the impeccably clean cities, outskirts, and countryside. Rwanda’s commitment to environmental sustainability serves as an inspiring example for all.

Diversification of the Economy

In the early 2000s, Rwanda unveiled its ambitious development strategy, Vision 2020, aimed at diversifying its economy and reducing dependence on traditional sectors. This National Strategy for Transformation and Prosperity was followed by Vision 2035 and 2050, and the Smart Rwanda Master Plan. All of these initiatives, implemented over the years, have transformed Rwanda into a resilient and dynamic economic player.

One facet of this transformation is the proactive promotion of tourism on global platforms. Rwanda, through initiatives like Move Afrika: Rwanda, which happened during my stay there, demonstrated its commitment to leveraging natural beauty, community spirit, and rich African culture to attract international tourists. Held at the BK Arena and headlined by Kendrick Lamar, this event marked the birth of the first pan-African touring circuit for international artists, showcasing Rwanda’s ambition to set new precedents on the Pan-African stage.

The emphasis on attracting international tourists aligns with Rwanda’s broader vision for sustainable economic growth through diverse revenue streams, setting it apart from some other African nations. My personal experience with day trips reflected the impact of investment in human capital, from booking trips to knowledgeable guides keen on explaining both the history and nature of the sites.

In the agricultural sector, comprehensive reforms were implemented to enhance productivity and ensure food security. Modern farming techniques were introduced, access to credit for farmers improved, and infrastructure investments were made to connect rural areas to markets. These efforts not only boosted agricultural output but also lifted many Rwandans out of poverty. I had a chance to spend some time with the General Director of one of the leading  Rwandan coffee export companies who was telling me about the cooperation with the local farmers and the impact of the business on the local economy.

Simultaneously, Rwanda’s information and communication technology (ICT) sector experienced significant growth, contributing to its transformation into a knowledge-based economy. Achievements in the ICT sector underscored its pivotal role in the country’s economic expansion.

Side Note

Despite these strides, it is crucial to note the ongoing reliance on international aid. This dependence may be influenced by a collective sense of responsibility and guilt within the international community for not preventing the genocide. While fostering financial support, this dynamic also poses challenges for long-term economic sustainability. Rwanda’s ability to navigate this delicate balance stands as a testament to its diplomatic acumen and strategic decision-making.

Connectivity and Technology Infrastructure

During my stay in Rwanda, I observed a stark contrast between Wi-Fi and mobile internet connectivity. While local SIM cards provided a faster and more stable connection, Wi-Fi proved to be agonising. Intrigued by this discrepancy and aware of the common challenges faced by many African countries in terms of internet access, I delved into researching Rwanda’s state of connectivity.

Rwanda has achieved universal coverage, yet internet penetration lags behind. According to data from 2020, 62% of Rwandans have access to mobile internet, with 36% facing constraints related to affordability, energy, and literacy. 

Efforts have been made to expand the fibre network by 45% since 2015, covering 6,100 km of backbone in 2019. Despite near-universal 3G and 4G network coverage, the country’s hilly geography demands significant investment for last-mile fibre connections.

Rwanda’s dedication to overcoming connectivity challenges sets a precedent for efficient and accessible communication networks. This commitment is further evidenced by a thriving start-up culture and active diaspora involvement, positioning Rwanda as an innovation hub in the region. 

Noteworthy is the rising number of events like GSMA MWC, HANGA Pitch Fest, and UNLEASH Innovation Lab, two latter I had the privilege of attending, that attract international professionals and corporations.

These and many more similar events showcase vibrant pitches and networking opportunities with angel investors, underscoring Rwanda’s emphasis on fostering innovation and entrepreneurship as crucial components of its economic development strategy.

Regional Integration and Lingering Conflicts

In the pursuit of expanding economic horizons, Rwanda actively pursues regional integration and global partnerships. Becoming a member of the East African Community (EAC) and engaging in specific trade agreements facilitated cross-border commerce, significantly increasing market access. A vivid illustration of this progress was observed during my trip to Akagera, where numerous cargo trucks bustled to and from Tanzania, symbolising vibrant trade connections and the transportation of goods destined for international markets.

Furthermore, Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable development and environmental conservation has positioned the country as a responsible global player, attracting considerable international support and investment. During the same day trip, I had the opportunity to interact with a member of the diaspora working in the agriculture industry. It was enlightening to hear about the initiatives he was leading to attract French capital and investors to the country, aiming to export goods and contribute to the employment and development of local communities. Additionally, I witnessed the development of cannabis fields and learned about the government’s efforts to tap into the multi-billion-dollar medical cannabis market.

In a significant move towards fostering unity among African nations, Rwanda recently implemented visa-free travel for all Africans entering the country. This bold initiative not only facilitates the movement of people across borders but also fosters a sense of solidarity and interconnectedness among the diverse nations of the continent. Rwanda’s commitment to supporting fellow Africans is evident in its pricing strategies, with different price ranges, such as entry fees to national parks, based on nationality. This approach strikes a balance between accessibility and sustainable conservation, contributing to the broader vision of a united and prosperous Africa.

Criticism

Despite these positive developments, it is crucial to acknowledge that Rwanda has been historically implicated in conflicts in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) and Burundi that still persists.

In the case of the DRC, Rwanda has been accused of supporting M23, an abusive armed group in eastern DRC, contributing to regional instability. The involvement is often linked to resource competition and historical tensions. Regarding Burundi, Rwanda has been accused of supporting Red Tabara rebel movement and contributing to the political unrest within the country. Ethnic and political factors have played a role in the complex relationship between the two nations. Recent events (Jan 2024), such as the closure of the border with Burundi and the cutting of diplomatic ties between the two nations, have raised concerns about Rwanda’s role in the region. 

Governance: Bane or Boon?

In many developing countries, a recurring theme in discussions on governance is the presence of a broken system, with leaders engaging in self-serving deals and widespread corruption permeating various sectors. However, there are exceptions to this common narrative, and Rwanda seems to stand out as one such example. 

Through visionary leadership and strategic policymaking, Rwandans are actively working towards making inclusive development a reality rather than just a dream. The government’s zero-tolerance policy for corruptionefficient public administration, and a commitment to the rule of law have fostered an environment conducive to business growth and foreign investment. Institutions like the Rwanda Development Board have played a crucial role in streamlining bureaucratic processes, making it easier for businesses to operate.

It is no surprise that the vast majority of citizens express a strong desire for President Paul Kagame to remain in office. Kagame’s leadership has been viewed as a stabilising force, particularly during critical periods in Rwanda’s history. The insights shared in one of the interviews that Al Jazeera conducted with Kagame may shed light on the factors contributing to the widespread support from the Rwandan population. If you have a moment to spare, here is the full video:

However, there are two sides to every coin. Like any governance system, Rwanda’s approach has been a subject of both praise and criticism on several fronts

While the country has experienced commendable economic and social progress since the tragic genocide in 1994, it has faced persistent concerns regarding political freedoms. Critics highlight the dominance of the ruling Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) and argue that political pluralism is limited, with opposition parties facing challenges in gaining traction. There are allegations of restrictions on freedom of expression, media control, and instances of journalists facing harassment, raising questions about the state of democratic governance.

Human rights concerns persist, with reports of arbitrary arrests and accusations of torture. Despite strides in national reconciliation, there are ongoing worries about ethnic tensions and divisions among Tutsis and Hutus as well as neglect of indigenous Twa people. Additionally, land rights issues, including forced evictions, have raised questions about property rights and social justice.

While Rwanda’s progress is undeniable, ongoing criticisms underscore the complexities and nuances within its governance landscape

Conclusion

While acknowledging that this observation is not an exhaustive analysis, it’s crucial to emphasise that Rwanda still faces a considerable journey ahead. Nevertheless, it stands as a remarkable example of progress. Importantly, I want to clarify that my intention was not to idealise Rwanda; rather, I aimed to shed light on significant ongoing efforts to transition out of the Low- and Middle-Income Countries (LMICs) category. 

The noteworthy aspect lies in the collective understanding within the country that prosperity is a shared goal, and progress is a collective effort. The commitment to unity, inclusivity, and sustainable development echoes a universal lesson that extends beyond Rwanda’s borders. 

Finally, reflecting on the broader theme of governance and stability, a question arises: when will nations in developing regions recognise the crucial lesson that effective governance is paramount and actively work towards unity and universal prosperity for the benefit of their citizens?

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